Camera; a Practical Magazine for Photographers Volume 8

This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can usually download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1904 edition. Excerpt: ...frame from slipping inward. A piece of candle, so arranged as to throw a light on the white paper between the glass and frame, completes the thing. A glance at the sketch should make everything clear.--The Amateur Photographer. name of "Pinakol Salt." "Adurol" and Metol together are said to give a more energetic developer than Quinol-Metol. It is proposed by Lebreton to use a developer containing only Pyro and Sodium Sulphite for overexposed plates; for normal exposures a few drops of Ammonia are added, and for underexposures Acetone. Reiss has used plates which can be developed by 3 per cent, solution of Carbonate of Soda. These plates can be made by immersing an ordinary dry-plate in a solution composed of: Hydroquinone, I part; Acetonesulphitc, 10 parts; water, ioo parts. Homolka finds that bromide papers, exposed to daylight for 15 to 20 seconds, can be developed by immersing for two or three hours in a 0.1 per cent, solution of Gold Chloride made acid with Phosphoric Acid. Mercier has obtained good brown and black tones on printing-out papers by the use of a solution of Potassium Palladium Chloride, Citric Acid and Sodium Chloride. A Temporary Retouching Desk To the amateur who occasionally wants to do a little retouching or "faking" on his negatives, the purchase of a proper retouching desk is an unnecessary expense. I give below particulars of how I rig up a temporary one when I require to do any retouching. The necessary articles consist of a printing frame minus springs, a piece of ground or plain glass, a sheet of white paper and a few pins. Spread the sheet of white paper on the table or a piece of flat board, and drive in two pins nearly as wide apart as the width of the printing frame (just a...